Day 30 – 20 km walked –total walked of 649 km – Bornem

Today we had a choice: walk around 30 Km, or more, on reasonably attractive but indirect cycle ways or walk 20 Km on a cycle way that tracks the main road. Having walked 30 Km yesterday, we opted for the latter. It was physically less taxing than the first option but, in the past, we have found that the predominantly road based walking seems to take more out of us mentally – today was no different. It did, however, have the virtue of getting us to our destination just after 15:00, in plenty of time for a much needed siesta.

Our hotel is small but has a very large and staggeringly busy restaurant. Emboldened by this, I asked for all local options and ended up with a slightly off tasting beer, brewed in this very town, and eel in a thick spinach sauce. The latter was good but will not be racing to the top of my all time list. As for the beer, I do wonder if it was not quite right or, perhaps, I have finally met a beer I didn't like very much – quite a shocker, especially in Belgium!

I have tried to sample local beers wherever possible but have to report to my beer drinking friends – they know who they are – that Chimay still stands head and shoulders above anything else I have tried so far. No shame to the others of course, as Chimay is an extraordinarily good beer though surprisingly not widely available over the last couple of days.

This leads me to say that I hope I have not given a negative impression of Belgium. The people are as friendly as can be, they care about food, brew great beer and have some lovely towns. It is simply that they are into bicycling rather than walking. Unfortunately, this has been a problem for us because it means having to walk along cycle ways. Not an ordeal but what seems a gentle detour on a bike often turns out to be a long way on foot and, therefore, not ideal for us.

Belgians seem to be fanatical about cycling: often cycling in large groups, with no age boundaries, in lurid, decal clad outfits at terrifying speeds, on very straight paths. There are others who cycle more sedately but their outfits are rarely less sedate than high camp Abba. If you thought cyclists in London are brave – to wear what they do – then you aint seen nothing.

Doris didn't suggest a musical choice for yesterday, so I will suggest one in honour of straightness, for both yesterday AND today. The cycle ways, canals and roadways may not always go where one wants but they go straight from A to B. A very tenuous excuse to pick Bob Seger and “Still the same”

And finally an appeal to anyone who has stayed in the lovely City of Bruges. We currently intend to spend a rest day there and would be grateful for any hotel recommenations.