Day 7

Yesterday's weariness, that you may detect in yesterday's entry, seemed to evapourate today. Perhaps yesterday's malaise was due to the relentless forest, or perhaps tiredness, or perhaps our final departure from the mighty river Main, that we crossed four times, and had been our friend and comforter for so long.

Whereas yesterday was simply tough, today was tough and exhilarating. A lot of uphill stuff but, boy, was it worth it – big serious dark green, fuck off, hills with views extending beyond the range of one's eye. Beauty so staggering that is was a surprise to find ourselves alone within and on it.

If the previous day's accommodation and food was magnificent, last night was journeyman at best. I feel ungenerous saying this, as the proprietor was friendly and helpful in every way that one could want. Her Pension had seen better times but I am sure she knew it. But her warmth was sincere, even to the extent of encouraging us to take the remaining breakfast rolls and ham to make our lunch – something we have done surreptitiously in other places.

Today was another contrast. Unable to find a hotel in our chosen destination, we climbed a big hill to stay in the German equivalent of a “Youth Hostel”. Sort of ironic, as everyone else there, and there were a lot of them, seemed to be at least ten years older than us. A quick side note to say that, after Doris retired to bed early-ish, I got talking to them in my pigeon German and what a friendly and lovely bunch they are.

Anyway, my point was going to be that this basic accommodation and food has its own special joy. It does not pretend to be grand, nor aspire to it - it is simply basic accommodation, in an amazingly scenic location, with basic but good food served with warmth. It does not fall into the trap of aspiration and is better for it.

This I know, by implication, damns last night's hospitality and it makes me feel ungenerous in doing so. The notion of generosity is one that has stuck with me from my recent readings of Buddhist teaching. Though a long way from being a Buddhist, as the glass of Weissbier in front of me will testify, I take the importance of generosity seriously, especially as my instinct is quick to judge, rather than be generous, no matter how hard I try to be so.

The picture, by the way, is teh view from just outside where we stayed.

All in all, another great day, with a tricky musical choice. I am going to have to go for “You can't always get what you want” by the Stones.