Day 31 – 19 km walked –total walked of 668 km – Dendermonde

As we have already said, our choice of destinations is now driven by where we can get accommodation rather than what seems to be a sensible walking target.

We booked this evening's accommodation two days ago, at the same time as we booked last night's in Bornem. Incidentally, although last night's hotel was delightful, there was, unfortunately, a market on the square the next day and we woken early by hosiery and cheese which arrived around 5:30 am.

Today's walk was shorter than originally estimated, once we had taken Doris's famous “straight-cuts”, and we arrived in Dendermonde at around 14:00, having previously informed the owners that we would be there around 16:00. Not usually an issue but, on this occasion, it could have been, as we were staying in a bed and breakfast rather than a hotel.

Concerns increased as the tail end of our walk took us through endless industrial landscapes, into a place that turned out to be a lot bigger than we realised. Well researched as ever, we were walking into a City rather than a village and not, it seemed, through the best part of town. But if there is one thing I have learned on this journey, it is not to judge one's circumstances too quickly – or at least to be willing to reappraise and re-frame quickly.

On arrival we were greeted by not one but two charming hosts, in a newly, and beautifully, renovated house that has only been open for business for a few weeks. As we are the only residents this evening, and as the owners do not live in, we have the run of a large townhouse. Not only do we have a large bedroom and enormous bathroom, we have a generous lounge, kitchen and fridge full of beer and wine.

Not only that but on arriving back from dinner, we found a note alongside a bottle of trappist beer that can only be bought at the actual abbey. What a lovely thought. And was it delicious? Hell yes, it was delicious. So a big thank you to Linda and recommendation of our hosts at http://www.domusportus.be/index%20english.html and the wonderful beer at http://www.sintsixtus.be/eng/index2.html or less modestly at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westvleteren_Brewery.

And there were these lovely people who knocked at the front door, looking for accommodation for their wedding party in September. I ended up showing around our current “home”. Dieter talks more than me which is saying something. It turns out that, on a number of occasions, he has completed the “death walk” of 100 Km (to be completed in just one day) that takes place every year, in a round trip, from our previous night's location in Bormen. He told me that it begins with the participants in coffins but I wonder if he got that the wrong way around. Blimey – tough geezers.

If you are reading this, have a great wedding and an enjoyable honeymoon in SA.

And finally, we have, through necessity, being doing some planning ahead and thought we would share our potential itinerary.

• Tuesday 28^th May we will be in Gent

• Thursday 30^th May we will be in Bruges and will take a day off to enjoy the City

• Friday 31^st May we will be in Ostend

• Saturday 1^st of June we should have crossed to Dover and be somewhere beyond

We both think that once we get back to England, we will be pretty motivated to complete the journey rather than linger, so think we will get home on Tuesday 4^th or Wednesday 5^th June but, as ever, we will take it as it comes, and if it is later for whatever reason then so be it.

Is it strange to think that we are close to embarking on our last week. Thank you all for your great support. See you soon.

Today's musical choice is the very soppy "Alone Together" by Carly Simon.